Noel Sign and Barnwood Christmas Trees Tutorial

My very crafty friend, Breanne, recently posted her darling Noel sign and wood Christmas trees on Facebook and offered to host a craft day to make them. I was so impressed with my finished products that I asked her if I could write up a tutorial for these cute porch decorations!

Sadly, I don't have any *in the making photos* to share (it was freezy-cold that day!) but I think with the directions and a few illustrations you can figure it out.

Noel Sign

Materials needed-
• 3- 4 foot x 1x4” boards (I got the good grade at Home Depot and didn’t have to do any sanding)
• 3- 9-10” x 1x2” boards
• Letters N O E L cut from Contact paper using a Cricut machine. Mine are about 8" wide (I suppose you could print letters on a computer, trace them on the Contact paper and hand cut)
• White acrylic paint (Keep in mind that you can buy the 4oz size of *trial* paint and have them custom mix your colors. I used the Behr paint and primer in one for this since I already had it)
• Red acrylic paint (I ended up using some old craft acrylic paint I had on hand. It needed two coats and I used the better part of 3- 4oz bottles)
• Staples and air compressor stapler OR other fasteners- screws etc
• Wood glue
• Paint stirrers (to be used as spacers)

Clamp all three 1”x4” boards together and trim the ends flush, only taking off a small amount so your boards are all even.

Place boards; face down, on a table or other flat surface. Make sure that the ends are all even. Use paint stirrers as spacers between the boards. Place one of the 1” x 2” x 9-10” boards horizontally. Adjust to fit the width of your sign. (My finished sign, with spaces, measured 10.5”). Spread a small line of wood glue under the cross-wise 1x2”, then staple support to back of sign with several staples. Repeat for remaining supports.

Paint the front, top and sides of the sign white. Allow paint to dry for several hours. (I have to go do something else or I get too impatient!)

Before peeling the back off of your contact paper do some preliminary spacing of the letters. When you are satisfied, remove the back and stick them to the sign.

Now here is the *Auntie P Trick*... with only a small amount of white paint on your brush, paint around the edges of the contact paper. The white paint will seep under the edges of the contact paper where it hasn’t adhered to the sign and prevent the RED paint from bleeding under. Ha! She is a genius! (You can use this trick anywhere with painter’s tape too!). Let the paint dry. (Step away from the sign!)

Now paint the front, sides and top with red paint. It may take two coats depending on your type of paint.

When dry carefully peel off the contact paper and viola! White letters on a red sign!

Barnwood Christmas Trees

Materials needed-
• Old weathered wood or pallets- any width (mine are 1x4”)
• Staples and air compressor staple gun OR other fasteners, screw, etc
• Wood glue
• The ability to cut 45° angle with a compound miter saw, or a miter box and hand saw, or cut them free-hand using a saw (that might add to the charm)

Choose a board for the upright (trunk**) part of your Christmas tree that will be as tall as you would like (as you can see, I did two different sizes)

Cut the top piece (branch) of the tree by making two 45° angle cuts to form a triangle. Flip the board vertically to make the second cut.

Measure the bottom of the triangle. Subtract 2” from that number. That will be the length of the top of second branch.

The length of the top of the NEXT branch will always be 2” shorter than the bottom of the PREVIOUS branch.

Continue cutting, remembering to flip the board vertically until you have as many branches as desired.

Starting with the top piece run a bead of wood glue on the *trunk* under that branch, then staple in place. I used a paint stirrer to get the spacing even between branches. When you’ve finished attaching of all your branches leave your tree flat until the glue has dried or it will run.

** With my first tree I didn’t cut the top of the trunk to form a triangle and since my wood is old and brittle the top piece split :(. On the smaller tree I cut the top of the trunk to give the whole piece support)

Search Engine for Blogger

My friend Anke, asked how I got my search engine. I told her briefly what I'd done and she wrote back,

"Oh my goodness, I am so computer stupid. I don't even know what that means LOL. What do you type in there???? Yikes"

I remember asking those very same questions from others (especially my niece, Cindy) out there in the blog-o-sphere. I was always so grateful for a step by step tutorial... So I'm going to do the same here.

• First off- Go HERE to let Google do the hard part for you- write the HTML code for the search engine.  Follow the directions on that page and then leave the page open so you can refer back to it later on.
• Now go to your blog (I will use my blog for the demonstration).
• Click on the "Design" link at the top of the page (screen shot #1)

• Click on the "layout" link (screen shot #2)

• Click on the "Add a Gadget" link (screen shot #3)

• This will open a new window.  Scroll down until you find the "HTML/JavaScript" and (you guessed it!) click on it! (screen shot #4)

• Now go back to the page from the beginning of the tutorial, where you created your custom Google search engine. Highlight and copy the HTML code (ctrl+C or Command+C on mac) (screen shot #5)

• Now paste that *party* code back into the Configure HTML/JavaScript window.  If you want to give it a title type that in the title box.
• Get excited... we're almost finished!
• Click "save".

• Yay!  Reload your blogger page and you will find the search engine there (and happy).

I hope all of this works for you. I was thrilled to get a search engine on my blog. I don't know if anyone else will use it but I USE IT! My blog has so much info that I like to refer to.

BTW you don't have to have tags for this to work. 

220- Diaper Tutorial

This morning before church Marie called to ask if I would bring some of the diapers I've made this week to show. She told me she'd seen them on my blog and loved them.

In Relief Society as I was telling how this humanitarian project had grabbed me by the heart, and why, I felt impressed to Throw Down the Gauntlet to the rest of the sisters. I ordered enough Touchtape (click on any link to go to that internet site) for 300 diapers so my challenge was that we make 300 diapers for Haiti!



After church Marie called again for some specifics and asked if I would post a more detailed set of instructions. I am pleased to share what I've learned this last week.

To make 3 diapers you will need-

• 1 yard of 44-45" wide flannel
• Touchtape (a hook and loop product similar to Velcro but stronger and more durable. Velcro doesn't hold up well with repeated use and washings. But remember if you live here or want to send them to me I have enough for 300 diapers)
• 3/8" elastic
• Old towels or microfiber for soaker pad
  

I am using a free pattern from Rita called Rita's Rump Cover.

Download the pattern HERE!

It prints out on 4- 8.5" x 11" pieces of paper and you will need to trim match the symbols to put it together. Cut around the pattern about 1/4" from the solid line. Cut *V*s at the elastic notches for easier marking later (but only on the pattern, not the fabric)



Now you have to be tricky and a bit Scotch (which I am) to get 3 diapers out of 1 yard of flannel. Starting with the fabric the way it come off the bolt fold it in half lengthwise so you have 4 layers of fabric with your selvage edges matching and cut edges matching. Now place the pattern as close as possible to the cut edges with the back of the pattern lined up with the selvage edges. (see photo below) Cut around the pattern starting at the selvage edge and being careful not to make any other cuts into the remaining fabric.



Now open the fabric so you have only 2 layers, reverse the pattern so the back edge of the pattern is by the folded edge and you can cut that 3rd diaper.



All right, don't laugh, save those scraps! Bring them with you to the Humanitarian night or drop them off at my house and I will turn them into humanitarian quilts. Waste not, want not!



Here are your three cut out diapers- a total of 6 pieces.



I like to mix and match my fabrics on the inside and outside, but that isn't necessary. Do what ever makes you happy.

To cut soaker pads I used old towels cut into 11" x 15" rectangles. I found that I could only cut through one layer of towel with my rotary cutter. You will need to serge or zigzag around the edges so the fabric will not fray. (I had large bath towels could get 3- 11" pieces from each width. I placed the ruler on the selvage edge where possible to save serging one more side.)



Take one diaper piece and place it RIGHT SIDE down. Fold one of the soaker pads in half lengthwise so you have a 15" x 5.5" rectangle. Center it on the WRONG SIDE of the diaper.



Using a straight stitch, stitch around the outer edges of the soaker pad and then add 2 rows of stitching down the length of each pad for stablility.



Place another diaper piece, without a pad attached, FACE UP, then place the piece with the soaker pad FACE DOWN on top of it, with RIGHT SIDE TOGETHER. Pin. You will notice that the piece with the soaker pad has shrunk up a little... don't worry about that.



Starting at the front of the diaper (right side in the above photo), right of center a couple of inches, stitch using a 5/8" seam. Back stitch at the beginning and end leaving an opening so you can turn the diaper. But don't turn it yet...



Now you will need to mark your diaper so you can add the elastic. With the soaker pad side down make a pencil mark at each notch on the seam allowance.



Place the end of your 3/8" elastic at the beginning mark ON THE SEAM ALLOWANCE. Tack down the end, put your needle down and stretch the elastic as far as humanly possible and stitch it ON THE SEAM ALLOWANCE using a 3-stitch zigzag. If you don't have this stitch, don't sweat it, just use a regular zigzag. When you get to the other end of the elastic mark tack your elastic. Cut elastic close to stitches and trim threads.



This is what it will look like after you've added all three piece of elastic.



Trim the seam allowance on the back tab area to about 1/2". But don't trim any other seams; with rock washing we want to make sure the seams will stay put.



Turn the diaper right-side out.



I have biggish hands and find that a chopstick helps me push out the back tabs. I also use the chop stitch to smooth out the seams on the back tab curves.



Starting at the front opening match folded seam edges together and sew up the opening. Continue to top stitch around the diaper. (I would normally use thread that matched the fabric but I've used white here for contrast.)



When you get to the beginning of the elastic (you will see the pucker and be able to feel it) put the needle down, pivot the fabric 90 degrees take a few stitched, then pivot back so you are sewing 3/8" from the finished edge, creating a casing for the elastic. Pay close attention at the tabs, make sure that you keep your seams from creeping back in.



I find that it helps to use a stiletto, or straight pin, to coax the seams out.



When you reach the other end of the elastic, pivot again so you are top stitching right on the edge. Continue to top stitch and make the casings until you are back to the beginning.



We're almost finished! Cut one 6" piece of loop and two 1 1/2" pieces of hook from your Touchtape. Round corners on top of loop and ends of hook pieces (see photos below)

Matching the centers of diaper front and Touchtape, pin the Touchtape to the OUTSIDE front of the diaper. Top stitch around the Touchtape back stitching at the beginning and end.



During the process, make sure that the inside of the diaper is smooth without any wrinkles.



Pin the rounded end of the hook tape on the INSIDE of the front tabs just back from the edges. Top stitch. After stitching if there are any sharp edges protruding beyond the edge of the diaper trim the Touchtape close to stitches.



That's it! You've done it! You've made a diaper!

What a difference you will make in these little orphan baby's lives!

And when (not if) we surpass the 300 diaper mark I will order more Touchtape!

Go Green Grocery Bags

I'd start by telling you that I am a little nutty, but you already know that!

Why should I go to all the trouble of making canvas bags for shopping when I can buy reusable bags from most grocery, hardware or big box stores for a nominal fee. I have to confess, BECAUSE I CAN!!!!! I just love to create things. It makes me happy. AND these bags are so cute!


Since I went to the trouble to figure all this out by looking at a BYU Creamery bag I bought for 50 cent bag (yeah, nutty, I told you!) I thought I would share it with all of you so that if you have a creative urge to be green (no that's Kermit... go green!) you can do it with style!

Schmokay, here we go-

You will need:
Basic Bag
7/8 yard canvas (per bag) if you want your bag to be all one color

OR

Contrasting Bag
3/8 yard canvas (front and back) [fabric 1]
1/2 yard contrast canvas (side/bottom piece and straps) [fabric 2]

OR

Bag With Webbing Handles
* If you don't want to have a fabric strap handle (perhaps your sewing machine won't sew through multiple layers of canvas) you can get webbing, in which case you will need
1 1/2 yard of 1" webbing (Omit cutting the 2- 3" x 28" strips mentioned in the cutting directions)




Start by cutting your pieces. You will need to cut:

2- 13" x 16" rectangles (front/back)
1- 9" x 43.5" strip (this is the side/bottom piece)
2- 3" x 28" strips for handles




With right sides together place the short side of the side/bottom piece on one of the front/back pieces(also short side). Starting in the top right hand corner sew with a 1/4" seam. At the corners stop sewing 1/4" from bottom of front/back piece. With the needle down, lift the presser foot and pivot the fabric 90 degrees. Gently fold the side/bottom piece back on itself so that it is now going along the bottom of the bag. Continue sewing at 1/4". Repeat at next corner. Repeat this process to add the other front/back piece.








Here's what you bag should look like at this point.


Turn the bag right-side out.











Turn under 1/4" along raw top edge of bag, then turn down 1 1/4" to make a sturdy top to the bag. Top stitch.







Iron the side and bottom seams so they are flat with each other like you would when you turn a collar or interfacing. (I find that the easiest way to do this is dampen my fingers and roll the seam until I am down to the stitching). Press fabric.









Now top stitch at 1/4" on outside of bag with the front/back piece on top (this will give you a finished French seam and will add stability to your bag). Top stitch to within 1/4" from bottom, back stitch.






Remove from machine. Fold fabric so you can sew across the bottom of the bag. Insert needle where you just ended the side seam and continue sewing across bottom of bag. Repeat for next corner and other front/back piece.

When you look at the side/bottom piece there will be a tiny tuck at the corner (the underside as you are stitching.)








(Whew, now all we need to do is add the handles!)

Press 3" x 28" strip in half length-wise. Then turn under 1/4" on along each long edge.







Place edges together and top stitch the length of strap keeping edges together. (Use pins if necessary).









Now top stitch the folded edge.










Fold under 1/2" of end of strap and place on top of bag 2 1/2" from side seam of bag.





Sew a square with "X" pattern inside to attach the handle to the bag. I found that if I started at the bottom corner, sewed a square and then the "X" I ended up with double stitching at the top and bottom of where the handle attaches. (Think that should be sturdy enough!)

*If you are going to use webbing instead of fabric cut 2 pieces 28" long. Using a flame melt the cut ends so they won't unravel. Sew to bag using directions above but don't turn under end of webbing.




All finished but the final pressing. Match the front and back pieces, folding in the sides. Then fold up the bottom edge to expose the bottom of the bag. Smooth, fold back down and give it a good steaming!










Here we go... my 4 fun bags... but you don't really think that is the end do you???

No, not with this OCD-nutty-girl.







I needed a bag for the bags! So I dug around and found half of an old Old Navy skirt (the other half is a pattern that I just love and have used and used). I re-purposed (love this word) it and made a tiny bag. It could easily hold 8-10 folded canvas bags!

Here are the measurements for the baby bag:

2- 10" x 8.5" (front/back)
1- 8.5" x 28" strip (side/bottom)
2- 3" x 19" strips (straps)

Use directions above. (This bag is a little tricky. It is square so be sure you have the 10" piece going up and down to start with, the extra turns under to make to top edge of the bag.)